A dinner at JIN definitely isn’t your average counter meal. Sure, seating is by the bar but drinks are strictly sake only, and if you’ve brought a friend don’t expect to indulge in any idle chatter – this Japanese fine diner is one for earnest eaters. It’s exclusive with just 12 seats; smart with an austere dark stone aesthetic; and most importantly, the food is staggering – just ask the Michelin men who awarded JIN its first star after it was open barely a year.

Sitting pretty in the 1st arrondissement, the small space is dominated by an exhibition kitchen with wraparound counter where patrons indulge and observe, usually in humbled silence, as chef Taku Watanabe slices and shapes a masterfully minimalist omakase. The rolling selection of flawless sushi display all the finesse, clarity and simplicity of an expert Sumi-e ink painting; expect raw lobster cubes capped with a single spinach leaf and uni nigiri served with aged Aka-zu vinegar. You won’t find a drop of wine or a dessert in sight, but that hasn’t discouraged Parisian punters from flocking to what has been tipped as the top Japanese table in the city. Best to book this one with your flight tickets, though weekday lunch seats can occasionally be snapped up at shorter notice.

6 rue de la Sourdière, 1st / +33 1 42 61 60 71 / dinner only Mon-Tue, lunch & dinner Wed-Sat